Although 40% of the blend of Cockburn’s 2000 “classic” vintage Port is from Quinta dos Canais, enough high-quality wine remained to bottle a single-quinta Port as well. Canais is slightly lighter in color and in weight, yet still boasts wondrous aromas of blueberries, licorice and sun-warmed schist. The wine’s red berries wrapped around a chocolaty core should be hitting their stride in only five years or so.——J.C.(3/1/2004)—— 91