The fruit on the palate is the very picture of plum. The wine’s not lean, nor is it sweet—it’s a solid, medium- to full-bodied Cabernet that doesn’t try to bowl you over with oak or caramel or, well, anything. It’s balanced and well behaved, with aromas that run the gamut from blackberry and plum to mocha to cherry to caramel. Very nice.——D.T.(12/31/2003)—— 90