An example of his success in red is Wieninger’s 2004 Pinot Noir Select from the Bisamberg (which was released in late 2007). Smelling of dried cherries tinged alluringly with cinnamon and ginger, notes of cherry pit, orange zest, white pepper, and meat broth reduction add complexity to this relatively delicate, and caressingly-textured Pinot that finishes with lingering perfume and refreshment. I would enjoy it within the next year or two. Fritz Wieninger has been the prime dynamo behind whatever over-due recognition the wines of Vienna have garnered over the past decade, and I have been remiss in not visiting with him until last year – too early, unfortunately, to assess certain of the 2007s from his sprawling line-up of cuvees, so the selection below is limited wines that were bottled early, or that I had occasion to revisit. “We are warmer in Vienna than the Wachau or Kamptal,” Wieninger reminded me, “and we can’t wait to harvest our vineyards until November, unless of course we want 15 or 16% alcohol. We need lighter wines, and for that, we have to harvest much earlier – which is unfortunate at times, because aromas are significantly enhanced through later picking, a practice suited to our terroir.” Wieninger seems to have mastered the balancing act that corresponds to this paradox of optimal harvest dates. His lighter wines do not display any unripe flavors.Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700

The ruby and amber-colored 1999 Blauburgunder Select is a raw, tannic wine with white pepper and tobacco flavors. It is backward, hard, and astringent. Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700