Puget Sound is the smallest and least-well-known appellation in Washington State, but among the dozen or so wineries that actually grow grapes here, Whidbey is the standout. Their Siegerrebe (a relative of Gewurztraminer) is an off-dry white wine, rich with citrus, spice, honey, pear, apricot and pine tar. The overriding impression is one of fresh-squeezed grapefruit, and the alcohol is just 11.5%.——P.G.(6/1/2006)—— 88