The 2004 Wolfer Goldgrube Riesling Spatlese A.P. #7 “Portz” will carry that parcel designation on a tiny neck label. Portz is a steep, sheltered parcel with a high content of finely pulverized slate. Yellow plum, grapefruit, lemon, white raisin, and sea breeze waft from the glass. A salty mineral intensity, bright citrus, and richly ripe plum fruit pack the palate. The finish – dominated by plum, grapefruit, and honey – is long and intense, if unevolved. This would seem to have outstanding potential. Vollenweider assures me that his various Spatlesen have been jockeying for qualitative position all Spring and Summer. Importers: Vineyard Research, Inc., Wellesley, MA; Ewald Moseler Selections, Portland OR; Old Vine Imports, San Francisco, CA.