Daniel Vollenweider Wolfer Goldgrube Riesling Kabinett Trocken

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Beginning with his 2009s, Vollenweider plans to adopt the convention of identifying no Pradikat designations for his dry-tasting wines, so his 2008 Wolfer Goldgrube Riesling Kabinett Trocken is not only the first of its kind at his estate, but will also be the last wine so-labeled. Its existence no doubt in part reflects the commercial reality that Vollenweider needs to attract more German customers, but even at a mere 6 grams of residual sugar, this is kept from severity by the sheer juiciness of its lemony brightness and a sense of density and stuffing (at 11.5% alcohol) to accompany its stony underpinnings. Sage and lemon zest serve for invigoration. I would plan to enjoy this ultra-dry Riesling in the next 2-3 years. Incidentally, as at so many German addresses - especially in the cold cellars of the Mosel - this and Vollenweider's legally trocken wine from his Schimbock - whose 2008 was not yet taste-able when I visited here - ferment spontaneously to a certain point, then receive cultured yeasts in the late innings. Given the premium Daniel Vollenweider puts on delicacy and vivacity as hallmarks of Middle Mosel Riesling, it is easy to see why he is pleased with the character of his 2008s, although in the dry echelons these wines are apt to strike many tasters as too marked by their acidity.Importers include Vineyard Research, Inc., Lunenburg, MA; tel. 617 686 8052; Ewald Moseler Selections, Portland OR; tel. 888 274 4312; A Bill Mayer Age of Riesling Selection Imported by Valley View Wine Sales, Glen Ellen, CA; tel. (510) 549 2444