Vollenweider’s 2004 Wolfer Goldgrube Riesling Spatlese A.P. #4 evinces conspicuously yeasty aromas, but clears to reveal lovely white peach and red currant rather reminiscent of the Ruwer. Juicy and generous, yet dense, firm, and bracing, this Spatlese is a refreshing joy to drink and seems likely to harbor the stamina for a couple of decades of satisfying evolution. For the time being, it finishes alluringly with white peach, nut oils, and jellied red currant, exhibiting the transparency of crystal and an underlying firmness of stone. Importers: Vineyard Research, Inc., Wellesley, MA; Ewald Moseler Selections, Portland OR; Old Vine Imports, San Francisco, CA.