Daniel Vollenweider Krover Steffensberg Riesling Spatlese

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Yet another first this year chez Vollenweider - at least, in its labeling - is his 2008 Krover Steffensberg Riesling Spatlese, although in fact the contents are exactly comparable to what he previously bottled as generic Spatlese. Vollenweider has been inspired by some of the young growers who are (as it were, following in his footsteps) rescuing the reputation and literally the acreage of this site, more of whose wines I hope to taste soon. Lemony brightness, rhubarb tartness, along with juicy nectarine and saline minerality make for lip-smacking refreshment, cheek-slapping invigoration, and penetrating persistence. A smoky aura associated with red slate (such as in nearby Erden) is present throughout. Vollenweider thinks this will need a few years to settle down and that this is typical of Krov Riesling. This intense, distinctive wine should be worth following for at least a dozen years. Given the premium Daniel Vollenweider puts on delicacy and vivacity as hallmarks of Middle Mosel Riesling, it is easy to see why he is pleased with the character of his 2008s, although in the dry echelons these wines are apt to strike many tasters as too marked by their acidity.Importers include Vineyard Research, Inc., Lunenburg, MA; tel. 617 686 8052; Ewald Moseler Selections, Portland OR; tel. 888 274 4312; A Bill Mayer Age of Riesling Selection Imported by Valley View Wine Sales, Glen Ellen, CA; tel. (510) 549 2444