Daniel Vollenweider Wolfer Goldgrube Riesling Spatlese Feinherb

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The 2008 Wolfer Goldgrube Spatlese feinherb evinces lemon, white currant, apricot, cardamom, and white pepper for a bright, pungent aromatic as well as palate impression. The penetrating brightness here is nicely complimented by lingering, lip-smacking, tongue-quivering salinity, which - along with 20 grams of residual sugar - keep this dry-tasting wine free from austerity. This seems as though it should serve as some sort of vitamin-C rich health tonic, and it should prove fascinating and selectively useful at table over the next 6-8 years. Given the premium Daniel Vollenweider puts on delicacy and vivacity as hallmarks of Middle Mosel Riesling, it is easy to see why he is pleased with the character of his 2008s, although in the dry echelons these wines are apt to strike many tasters as too marked by their acidity.Importers include Vineyard Research, Inc., Lunenburg, MA; tel. 617 686 8052; Ewald Moseler Selections, Portland OR; tel. 888 274 4312; A Bill Mayer Age of Riesling Selection Imported by Valley View Wine Sales, Glen Ellen, CA; tel. (510) 549 2444

To get his 2005 Wolfer Goldgrube Riesling Spatlese feinherb fermented down to the point of relatively dry taste (at 19 grams residual sugar) took Vollenweider until summer and meant nearly 13% alcohol in the finished wine. Banana, pink grapefruit, overripe pear, and apple cider in the nose prepare one for a rich, voluminous palate loaded with ripe fruits and a finish of toasted pralines, bitter-sweet citrus, pear and apple. Yet for all of these extremely ripe suggestions, the wine in question is virtually dry, and no heat betrays its alcohol. Importer: Vineyard Research, Inc., Lunenburg, MA; tel. (617) 686-8052; Ewald Moseler Selections, Portland OR; tel. (888) 274-4312; Old Vine Imports, San Francisco, CA

All of the wines are vinified in stainless steel, usually with ambient yeasts, and purity is certainly a hallmark of Vollenweider’s talk and walk. As usual, he has bottled but a single wine in a drier style, his 2004 Wolfer Goldgrube Riesling Spatlese feinherb. The nose exhibits ripe white peach along with youthful yeastiness and subtly smoky, almost peat-like accents. Faintly tart peach and pear skin, brown spice, and citrus zest notes complexify a juicy peach and grapefruit matrix on the palate. There is an almost doughy substantiality, applied to bright acids. The satisfying and just off-dry finish evokes quince, pear, and peach, tinged with baking spices and peat. Importers: Vineyard Research, Inc., Wellesley, MA; Ewald Moseler Selections, Portland OR; Old Vine Imports, San Francisco, CA.