2004 Wolfer Goldgrube Riesling Spatlese Gold Capsule A.P. #9 smells of pineapple and banana. It comes onto the palate creamy and rich, full of tropical fruit ripeness, yet clear and juicy with subtly bright citrus, tart notes of plum and apple, and distinct, saline minerality, all offering counterpoint to the wine’s fat and richness. A mysteriously meaty low tone emerges on the palate as well. The finish gushes ripe pineapple fruit along with alluring spice and refreshing salinity and citrus. There is but one Auslese this year, from heavily botrytised fruit culled over a range of parcels through early November. But the quality of botrytis and the accumulation of intermittent rain rendered it impossible, says Vollenweider, for him – who uses no botryticides – to harvest a Beerenauslese. Importers: Vineyard Research, Inc., Wellesley, MA; Ewald Moseler Selections, Portland OR; Old Vine Imports, San Francisco, CA.