Vollenweider's dry-tasting 2008 Riesling - another first-time label-designation at this address, although in this year at least, it comes entirely from the Krower Steffensberg - smells of pumpkin, yellow plum, sage, nettle and hints of wood smoke. Fresh lemon, tomatillo, and plum skin lend this invigoration, and despite 12% alcohol and a certain sense of substantiality, it exhibits vintage-typical buoyancy. This relatively water-retentive site promotes acid retention - as strong vintage characteristic anyway - even when harvested late and at high must weight, as here. I'd plan to enjoy it within 3 years, and it may come to terms more effectively with its acidity even in the short run. Given the premium Daniel Vollenweider puts on delicacy and vivacity as hallmarks of Middle Mosel Riesling, it is easy to see why he is pleased with the character of his 2008s, although in the dry echelons these wines are apt to strike many tasters as too marked by their acidity.Importers include Vineyard Research, Inc., Lunenburg, MA; tel. 617 686 8052; Ewald Moseler Selections, Portland OR; tel. 888 274 4312; A Bill Mayer Age of Riesling Selection Imported by Valley View Wine Sales, Glen Ellen, CA; tel. (510) 549 2444
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