The 2006 Wolfer Goldgrube Riesling Auslese Portz is loaded with the white raisin and honey of botrytis, along with peony and over-ripe Persian melon. Plush, creamy, yet with formidable underlying density, it is even more remarkable for its levity and elegance. Subtle suggestions of caramel along honey in the finish do not preclude real refreshment and juiciness. In fact, you’ll feel like tying a napkin around your neck even if you’re swallowing (which I was tempted to). Irresistible though it is, this will be best at between 12-25 years of age. “We started picking immediately after the October 3rd rain, and then under high pressure,” relates Daniel Vollenweider. Already then, there was little to be harvested below Auslese, not surprising considering the general trends this vintage and the fact that Vollenweider, as a friend to botryits in normal times, never sprays to keep it at bay. But in a departure from the norm, one cask had reached ten grams of residual sugar by the end of last summer and Vollenweider decided he might as well taste what a truly dry Wolfer Goldgrube Spatlese would be like! (I have not connected with the bottled wine.) A second major vineyard reclamation project in the Schimbock – a once-renowed riverside parcel within today’s Trabener Wurzgarten – is where Vollenweider intends to specialize in dry Riesling.Importer: Vineyard Research, Inc., Lunenburg, MA tel. 617 686 8052; Ewald Moseler Selections, Portland OR tel. 888 274 4312; also A Bill Mayer Age of Riesling Selection Imported by Valley View Wine Sales, Glen Ellen, CA; tel. (510) 549-2444