Weingut Max Ferd. Richter Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese, Mosel, Germany

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Displaying less sheer viscosity and uncanny buoyancy than its Wehlen counterpart but an especially alluring creaminess allied to efficacious yet discreet springs of acidity and to a striking sense of fresh-fruitedness, Richter’s 2009 Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese emphasizes grapefruit, pineapple, and honey tinged by the bitterness of fruit pips. There is little obvious sense of botrytis per se here, and perhaps in part for that reason marginally less complexity or intrigue than in the corresponding Wehlener, but this finishes with a purity and sheer length that suggest to me it will be well worth following for 30-40 years (if you’re old enough to purchase a bottle and young enough to live that long) during which it may well generate considerable further excitement. While yields were down significantly in Muhlheim and Brauneberg – particularly due to peronospora – and sorting almost universally required, Dirk Richter reports that his overall 2009 crop was above- average volume, though he acknowledges that due to the need for relatively intensive spraying against fungal pests, both its ripening and the evolution of the resulting wines were retarded. Kabinetts were not picked until the last days of October; acid levels of most wines are well above vintage average; there was little Auslese; and some wines (Kabinetts, as it happens!) had not yet bottled when I visited in September. Richer – whose Rieslings from top sites continue to be bargain-priced – has just taken over a section of Erdener Treppchen that is in the family of his cellarmaster, who has no heirs. While there were still stocks of some 2008 vintage Rieslings available when I visited in September, the 2009 Richter Pinot Blanc had already been sold out without remainder, so I did not get chance to taste that of-late often promising bottling.Importer: Langdon-Shiverick Cleveland, OH; tel. (216) 861-6800

The 2005 Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese offers dusty, smoky notes of advanced botrytis on the nose, along with grilled pineapple, apricot preserves, lemon, and honey, all four of which elements vie for attention on the palate. Pure, refined and with rapier-sharp length, this nevertheless is not yet by any means organized or clear enough to permit a good view of what sort of personality lies in the future. For now one can only say that it may take many years for the personality of this wine to be clearly visible, but it is virtually certain that this will be a 50-year wine. Along with the sheer density of Richter’s 2005 vintage Trockenbeerenauslesen goes, in each instance, a concentration of acidity to over twelve grams.Also recommended: 2005 Muhlheimer Sonnenlay Riesling “Zeppelin” ($16.00; 85), 2005 Riesling Classic ($18.00; 86), 2005 Graacher Domprobst Riesling Kabinett feinherb ($26.00; 85+?), 2005 Riesling ($18.00; 85), 2005 Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Kabinett ($25.00; 86+?).Importer: Langdon-Shiverick Cleveland, OH; tel. (216) 861-6800