Emrich-Schonleber Weissburgunder (Pinot Blanc) Trocken

點(diǎn)擊次數(shù)：2327

2010 年的 Weissburgunder 由 Emrich-Schonleber 釀造，在較大的桶中釀造和熟成。該酒質(zhì)地如奶油般柔滑，清澈透明，十分清新，余味中帶令人愉悅的鹽味及水晶礦物質(zhì)味，伴有微微的烤面味。適飲期：至少未來(lái) 5 至 6 年。

The Schonlebers bottled their 2009s (with the notable exception of their halbtrocken Halenberg “R”) already in late spring. The Emrich-Schonleber’ 2009 Weissburgunder trocken offers a toastier nuttiness than some of this estate’s other recent renditions of Pinot Blanc, and at 13.5% alcohol evinces none of the delicacy that can sometimes accompany this grape’s Riesling-like juiciness and seeming ability to transparently reflect Monzingen slate. Tart, pungent lime peel; peat-like smokiness; and invigorating salinity add interest to the fresh apple toasted hazelnut of this persistent Pinot Blanc that I would plan on serving over the next 3-4 years. Werner and Frank Schonleber harvested through nearly the entire month of October, and noted that levels of sugar and total acidity remained fairly constant, while flavors kept improving and malic acid diminishing in favor of tartaric. Speaking of improving, it’s hard for these two vintners to much-improve their by now phenomenal batting average, but no Riesling lover is likely to suffer the least disappointment by buying bottles of Emrich-Schonleber 2009s. Especially at its dry end, this is a collection to describe which seems to call for an extended mineral vocabulary that doesn’t even exist in English or German! And in nobly sweet echelons, the small amount of Riesling the Schonlebers rendered is strikingly successful and informed by an ample if mysterious measure of sheer juiciness. About the absence of Eiswein, Frank Schonleber notes: “We had the feeling that ripeness had simply advanced too far in 2009 to justify leaving any grapes hanging in anticipation of frost.”Imported by Sussex Wine Merchants, Moorestown, NJ; tel. (856) 608 9644; also imported by Dee Vine Wines, San Francisco, CA tel. (877) 389- 9463

Crabapple tartness and herbal pungency place a distinctive stamp on the Schonlebers’ 2008 Weissburgunder trocken, yet on the palate it still offers a subtle suggestion of variety-typical creaminess. While 13% in alcohol, it shares with its immediate predecessor a sense of harboring even less, displaying real lift and energy in the finish, to which hints of apple pip, iodine, and toasted nut lend a not unattractively bitter note, and salinity adds some extra savor. Enjoy this over the next 3-4 years. Werner and Frank Schonleber are another Nahe dream team whose amazing performance in 2007 has been equaled in 2008. “I wouldn’t call it a vintage with the emphasis on fruit,” says Werner Schonleber, “but rather on a pronounced, saline minerality. And there was no great selection of nobly sweet wine this year, because every three or four days it would rain at least a little bit.” He offers as “a very simple explanation” of this pronounced minerality the classic one adduced by growers (whether or not scientifically supportable) that the vines better “assimilate mineral stuff” when mild weather and plenty of moisture grease – as it were – the wheels of plant metabolism. And such vintages always boast measurably high levels of dry extract; the question remains, has that – as most growers believe – anything to do with their expression of flavors for which we feel compelled to employ mineral vocabulary?Importers: Sussex Wine Merchants, Moorestown, NJ; tel. (856) 608-9644; Dee Vine Wines, San Francisco, CA tel. (877) 389-9463

Whiffs of smoke seem to rise from the glass of Schonleber 2007 Weissburgunder trocken, and its expansive palate is creamy but lacks the nuttiness or refreshment that this Pinot Blanc can bring. I wouldn’t have guessed this had 14% alcohol (even though I tasted it before 8 A.M. when my palate is highly sensitized) and its rich apple and herb finish manages to refresh. But I’d be inclined to drink it more quickly than some previous vintages – say within 3 years. Werner Schonleber indicates he is going to increase the proportion of this wine that does not undergo malo, in order to promote more lift and freshness, although I think 2007 is an exception for falling at all short in that respect. To say that Werner and son Frank Schonleber have been on a roll lately must count as an understatement (and that applies to 2008, too). Two heads are better than one, no doubt, plus the advantages of accumulated wisdom and acreage – the family is filling-in what was once a decidedly, in places depressingly patchy landscape by buying up prime parcels from retiring vintners – are obvious. The Schonlebers went over their vineyards in early October to pull out some botrytis that had already accumulated and to thin their crop, and began seriously harvesting Riesling after the 10th. The estate’s vines were largely spared savage but capricious hail that rained down on parts of the Fruhlingsplatzchen. Werner Schonleber draws a stylistic comparison with the 2002 vintage, which he convincingly demonstrated with several bottles.Imported by Sussex Wine Merchants, Moorestown, NJ; tel. (856) 608 9644; also imported by Dee Vine Wines, San Francisco, CA tel. (877) 389- 9463

The Schonleber 2006 Weissburgunder trocken as usual for their Pinot Blanc displays more the sweetly floral than it does the toasty nutty side of this variety, and the suggestion is of raw hazelnut. The texture is wonderfully creamy, yet in classic fashion of this grape, at the same time the wine is juicy and (even at 13% alcohol) practically delicate. The integration of oak (for a large, several-years-old cask) adds complexity, and the finish of hazelnuts, Normandy cider, and subtle, savory salinity is delectable. The ageability of really well-crafted true Pinot Blanc is among its many, largely unrecognized virtues. Relish the versatility of this wine over the coming 5-7 years. “The Nahe had the capability to render really good dry wines this year,” asserts Werner Schonleber. “Elsewhere, the botrytis was problematic, or the ripening took place too quickly. But we caught the whole spectrum here.” He proceeded to prove this memorably in the glass, with the finest collection I have ever tasted at this address (as well as – improbably – one in which Fruhlingsplatzchen outperformed Halenberg).Imported by Sussex Wine Merchants, Moorestown, NJ; tel. (856) 608-9644; also imported by Dee Vine Wines, San Francisco, CA; tel. (877) 389-9463