Alkaline, stony, saline, marine characteristics make for a surprisingly austere 2006 Erbacher Marcobrunn Riesling Erstes Gewachs, with accents of mint and peach kernel featuring in its penetrating, slightly spiritous nose. The bitter side of vanilla along with peach kernel and persistent, diverse minerality inform a strikingly long finish. For the sake of its relative austerity, this would seem to need time in the cellar, but I wonder whether its presently borderline volatility will remain contained. Gerko zu Knyphausen’s sites (most near the Rhine shore) fared variably in the difficult 2006 vintage, and those he picked soonest (or from higher elevations) – even if ostensibly of lesser pedigree –turned out best.Importer: P. J. Valckenberg International, Tulsa, OK; tel. (918) 622-0424

The 2004 Erbacher Marcobrunn Riesling Erstes Gewachs displays a heady aroma of decadently overripe pit fruits, then takes a startlingly sharp turn on the palate into lemony brightness laced with salt and peach kernel. Overripe peach returns in the finish along with nutty low tones and a persistent overlay of citrus. This is a well-concentrated and fascinating – somewhat spare and decidedly bifurcated – Riesling from Gerko Knyphausen’s tiny portion of a legendary site, and I am inclined to give it the benefit of the doubt. Still, I would have been more at ease with a thoroughly convincing grand cru performance by both of this year’s Knyphausen Grosses Gewachs entries. Importer: P. J. Valckenberg International, Tulsa, OK; tel. (918) 622-0424