The one-star 2007 Bopparder Hamm-Feuerlay Riesling Spatlese* trocken is impressively concentrated, with citrus oils, lavender, and fruit pits lending a faintly bitter cast that coincides with a faintly smoky, prickly suggestion of botrytis. Quite full, with a honeyed glaze – though not forgetting it quartzite-rich origins in a typical, and here especially welcome, hint of salinity – this finishes with admirable length, but a faint bit of heat. Florian Weingart’s reputation continues to mount, but he remains always the self-effacing and astute observer of wine, very much including his own. Given the amount of nobly sweet wine produced here in 2006 and the sometimes problematic quality of the botrytis that appeared this year, the estate essayed little in that genre this year, much of which moreover ended up as blending material.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300