Weingut Weingart Bopparder Hamm Ohlenberg Riesling Spatlese Feinherb, Mittelrhein, Germany

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The Weingart 2007 Bopparder Hamm-Ohlenberg Riesling Spatlese feinherb is – like its generic Hamm counterpart – both pungently zesty and honeyed. It is also endowed with luscious yellow plum, Persian melon, and tangerine, tinged with nutmeg and quinine. Projecting an imposing sense of ripeness, oily-richness, and fullness (at only 12% alcohol), at the same time this displays cooling refreshment and buoyancy, while conveying a steady finishing stream of saline and stony mineral impressions. Even at 24 grams of residual sugar (not to mention lower acidity than most of its stable mates), I hesitate before describing this wine’s impression as “semi-dry,” lest someone avoid it for fear of its sweetness. Suffice it to say that this will prove enormously versatile over at least the next 10-12 years, and will also I’m quite sure become more harmonious and refined. Florian Weingart’s reputation continues to mount, but he remains always the self-effacing and astute observer of wine, very much including his own. Given the amount of nobly sweet wine produced here in 2006 and the sometimes problematic quality of the botrytis that appeared this year, the estate essayed little in that genre this year, much of which moreover ended up as blending material.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300