Weingart Bopparder Hamm Feuerlay Riesling Spatlese Halbtrocken

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Smoky, spicy aromas in the 2009 Bopparder Hamm-Feuerlay Spatlese halbtrocken follow – along with peach and persimmon – on a lush, substantial (13% alcohol) palate, finishing essentially dry-tasting. Peat, peach kernel, and brown spices contribute to the impressive sense of grip exhibited by this formidable if not especially elegant or ingratiating Riesling. I would plan on enjoying it over the next 4-6 years. For notes on some recent developments at Florian Weingart’s estate, please consult my report in issue 187. While much has been done to improve vineyards and cellar, this young grower’s acute self-awareness and quality-consciousness continue as they have since he took over here, even as he has become one of his country’s most talked-about talents. And he would be the last to want readers to remain unaware that the wines rendered here when his father, Adolf, was in charge – of which I recently tasted a fresh, minerally-intense example that I had imported from the difficult 1987 vintage – were consistently good and often downright distinguished. Weingart reports some drought stress in 2009, but while he began picking already before mid October, Oechsle levels were universally high, which explains not only the relatively high alcohol of some of the dry wines (a phenomenon that’s been witnessed in these vineyards in quite a few recent vintages) but the lack of differentiation by that metric between those wines Weingart chose to bottle as Kabinett and those that became Spatlese. Acid levels were on the whole modest, on top of which several of Weingart’s 2009s – including a couple of the ones I thought among his finest, please note! – underwent at least partial malo-lactic transformation.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300