Weingart Bopparder Hamm Ohlenberg Riesling Spatlese Halbtrocken

點(diǎn)擊次數(shù)：2102

At a full percentage less alcohol than its counterpart from the Feuerlay, Weingart’s 2009 Bopparder Hamm-Ohlenberg Spatlese halbtrocken exhibits a very different personality, its pithy piquancy of peach kernel, hickory, and walnut allied to that of lemon and grapefruit zest, but also to ample primary juiciness and metaphorically cooling herbal essences, the whole admirably supported by the subtlest suggestion of sweetness. The contribution of yeasts here is not by way of fermentative overtones but rather by way of silken and creamy textural nuances thanks to lees contact. This superbly-balanced Riesling finishes with soothing refreshment yet persistently stimulating piquancy and ought to be worth following for at least the next dozen years. For notes on some recent developments at Florian Weingart’s estate, please consult my report in issue 187. While much has been done to improve vineyards and cellar, this young grower’s acute self-awareness and quality-consciousness continue as they have since he took over here, even as he has become one of his country’s most talked-about talents. And he would be the last to want readers to remain unaware that the wines rendered here when his father, Adolf, was in charge – of which I recently tasted a fresh, minerally-intense example that I had imported from the difficult 1987 vintage – were consistently good and often downright distinguished. Weingart reports some drought stress in 2009, but while he began picking already before mid October, Oechsle levels were universally high, which explains not only the relatively high alcohol of some of the dry wines (a phenomenon that’s been witnessed in these vineyards in quite a few recent vintages) but the lack of differentiation by that metric between those wines Weingart chose to bottle as Kabinett and those that became Spatlese. Acid levels were on the whole modest, on top of which several of Weingart’s 2009s – including a couple of the ones I thought among his finest, please note! – underwent at least partial malo-lactic transformation.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300