Weingart Bopparder Hamm Riesling Kabinett Trocken

點(diǎn)擊次數(shù)：1953

Originating in a vineyard that straddles the Ohlenberg and Engelstein Einzellagen (hence the specificity of the label having stopped at “Hamm”), Weingart’s 2009 Bopparder Hamm Kabinett trocken displays salt and wet stone characteristics comparable to those exhibited by his generic Riesling trocken, but with pumpkin and toasted pumpkin seed; lemon and lime; as well as peach, pear, and pistachio oil informing a more polished, indeed silken palate that even at 12.5% alcohol evinces a sense of levity, thus arguably justifying the term “Kabinett.” The finish here is refreshing and invigorating, while leaving one with a palpable sense of high extract. I would never have guessed that this bottling didn’t even reach 7 grams of total acidity or that it underwent partial malo-lactic transformation. Given its uniqueness, though, I would be disinclined to speculate about how it will age past its first 2-3 years. For notes on some recent developments at Florian Weingart’s estate, please consult my report in issue 187. While much has been done to improve vineyards and cellar, this young grower’s acute self-awareness and quality-consciousness continue as they have since he took over here, even as he has become one of his country’s most talked-about talents. And he would be the last to want readers to remain unaware that the wines rendered here when his father, Adolf, was in charge – of which I recently tasted a fresh, minerally-intense example that I had imported from the difficult 1987 vintage – were consistently good and often downright distinguished. Weingart reports some drought stress in 2009, but while he began picking already before mid October, Oechsle levels were universally high, which explains not only the relatively high alcohol of some of the dry wines (a phenomenon that’s been witnessed in these vineyards in quite a few recent vintages) but the lack of differentiation by that metric between those wines Weingart chose to bottle as Kabinett and those that became Spatlese. Acid levels were on the whole modest, on top of which several of Weingart’s 2009s – including a couple of the ones I thought among his finest, please note! – underwent at least partial malo-lactic transformation.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300