Dark in youth, and oaky, with 85% new French wood, this Philippe Melka-crafted Cab has the fresh young flavors of an immature Bordeaux. It needs time for the intense currant, blackberry, sandalwood and spice flavors to integrate with the firm tannins. Give it a good five years to begin to fuse together, but it will live far longer than that.——S.H.(4/1/2009)—— 93