The 2007 Fiano d’Avellino Ripa Alta is a focused expression of Fiano redolent of white peaches, flowers, mint and minerals. The wine shows excellent persistence and a polished personality that has been missing in some prior vintages. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2011. Villa Raiano makes a wide variety of wines, but I only found a handful that merit close attention. The reds are markedly better than the whites, but this is an estate that is still searching for a consistent house style. Importer: Vinifera Imports, Ronkonkoma, NY; tel. (631) 467-5907

The 2002 Fiano d’Avellino Ripa Alta, which sees a bit of oak, is honeyed and mineral and is full and long on the palate. Importer: Domaine Select, New York, NY; tel. (212) 398-5871