The 2004 Vieux Mas des Papes Chateauneuf du Pape (the second wine of Vieux Telegraphe), which is aged in tank and old wood foudres, is a blend of 90% Grenache and 10% Mourvedre. Notes of strawberries and cherries jump from the fresh, vibrant bouquet. Medium-bodied and pretty, with surprisingly high alcohol (15.3%), this wine should be drunk over the next 3-4 years. Importers: Vieux Telegraphe and Pigoulet: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524; Chateau La Roquette: Diageo Chateau Estate Wines, New York, NY; tel. (212) 419-1400

The 2003 Vieux Mas des Papes Chateauneuf du Pape is a fleshy, but somewhat dry, tannic wine with hints of old saddle leather, a relatively shallow, medium-ruby color, nice spice, and sweet cherry/strawberry notes. The hardness in the finish may prove troublesome with another 2-3 years of bottle-age. I would drink it up. Importers: Vieux Telegraphe and Pigoulet: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524; Chateau La Roquette: Diageo Chateau Estate Wines, New York, NY; tel. (212) 419-1400