Barolo Buon Padre (“good father”) is a wine that walks in delicate steps, rather than in leaps and bounds. This is a good thing, because the slow pace allows you to savor its lingering tones of cherry cola, licorice, jasmine and dried flower. The only distraction is a persistent tea-like aroma that develops into full-on Irish breakfast tea as the wine takes in more oxygen.——M.L.(4/1/2009)—— 88