Ripe peach and pineapple; ocean spray salinity and mineral nuance; as well as suggestions of asparagus and herbed chicken stock scent Guffens- 2008 Chablis Montmains, which then comes to the palate depositing salt and oyster shell residues on the gums while unleashing an unstoppable flow of saliva. Bitter hints of cherry pit, caraway, and citrus zest add to the impressively clinging, refreshing finish of this rather Loire Sauvignon-like Chablis that was raised primarily in tank. I would expect it to perform admirably for at least 5-7 years. -To those who wrote that 2007 was a classic Chablis year,- says Macon-based Jean-Marie Guffens, who bought fruit from that vintage solely for a Les Clos - -I want them to know that I never again want to see a -classic- year like that! You had to choose between picking under-ripe or risking over-ripeness and rot. And to me Chablis under-ripe is ?- at which point he struck one of those elastic-faced grimaces that are a Guffens hallmark. (Naturally, his comment and gesture were directed inter alia at my own opinion!) Guffens described the summer of 2008 as -even worse than the summer of 2007,- but considered the upshot of 2008 incomparably better thanks to the balmy, breezy September weather, which permitted him to put off picking until September 26 - October 9, the wines reaching 13.5% potential (and finished) alcohol at the upper end, but generally hovering in the mid to upper 12s. No doubt influenced as well by growers- willingness to deal on price in 2008, Guffens rendered a considerable (not to mention exemplary) range of Chablis from this vintage; and his 2009 Chablis collection will be his largest-ever both in volume and diversity as well as, in his opinion, among his best. (Indeed, those 2009 wines were displaying a dimension of minerality and degree of nuance as well as vivacity from cask and tank in April that few of their vintage appeared likely to equal.)Importers include: Ideal Wine & Spirits, Medford, MA; tel. (617) 395-3300 and Vintner Select, Mason, OH; tel. (513) 229-3630

Given how well Maison Verget’s 2002 Chablis showed at my tasting, I was surprised by how tight, bright, and compressed the 2002 Chablis Montmains was. Its deep mineral aromas lead to a light-bodied, steely, closed personality that reveals hints of citrus fruits and minerals. It is refreshing yet eclipsed by Guffens’ other Chablis. Drink it over the next 1-2 years.