The 2011 Costabate is a pure expression of Sangiovese that has been aged in new oak for two years. The oak used here is unique and comes from 300-year-old trees. Only 500 magnums of this wine are produced. The wine's style is big and bold, and it shows enormous density and concentration. The edition of Costabate from the warm 2011 vintage is a little over the top for my tastes. I am so enamored of Uccelliera's Brunellos that it is a challenge for me to make room in my heart for a wine as extreme as this in terms of darkness and toasted oak intensity. That said, it will be interesting to see where this wine goes ten years from now.

Only made in magnums, the 2010 Costabate is a wine whose mandate is to highlight oak more than fruit. Let me explain: Andrea Cortonesi sourced special French barrique made with trees over 300-years-old. The quality of the wood is extra compact and dense, and the wine reflects an evidently toasted and smoked character as a result. In fact, it is a little too much for the delicate Sangiovese grape and that is one of the reasons Uccelliera keeps this as an IGT wine. I agree with the choice because the wine is so radically different from the more delicate Brunellos made here. The two sets of wine appeal to two different palates. This vintage of Costabate delivers extra power and determination. Black fruit is followed by tar, Teriyaki and exotic spice. The wine aged for two years in barrique and two years in bottle.

The 2009 Costabate is a selection of 100% Sangiovese aged in French oak barrels and bottled exclusively in magnum. The style is rich, dark and sumptuous. Mocha, tobacco, espresso and leather come together in this deep, resonant wine. It will be interesting to see where this bottling goes over the coming years. This is a terrific showing for an uneven vintage in Montalcino. My impression is that the Costabate will truly shine in more structured years that have a bit more stuffing to match the oak. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2024. Andrea Cortonesi reflects the best of the artisan spirit in Montalcino. The Uccelliera wines are rich, layered and beautifully textured. Cortonesi vinifies his plots in three major subdivisions, corresponding to the altitude of the vineyards on the slope. Partial aging in French oak gives these Brunellos from the southern Castelnuovo dell’Abate district additional warmth and richness. Readers who want to check out the Uccelliera wines might want to start with the Rosso or the Rapace, which is sublime in 2010, a great vintage for Montalcino. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including: de Grazia Imports; tel. (417) 732-4200; Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300; Estate Wines Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411; Robert Houde Wines, Elk Grove Village, IL; tel. (847) 430-3887