The 2009 Costabate is a selection of 100% Sangiovese aged in French oak barrels and bottled exclusively in magnum. The style is rich, dark and sumptuous. Mocha, tobacco, espresso and leather come together in this deep, resonant wine. It will be interesting to see where this bottling goes over the coming years. This is a terrific showing for an uneven vintage in Montalcino. My impression is that the Costabate will truly shine in more structured years that have a bit more stuffing to match the oak. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2024. Andrea Cortonesi reflects the best of the artisan spirit in Montalcino. The Uccelliera wines are rich, layered and beautifully textured. Cortonesi vinifies his plots in three major subdivisions, corresponding to the altitude of the vineyards on the slope. Partial aging in French oak gives these Brunellos from the southern Castelnuovo dell’Abate district additional warmth and richness. Readers who want to check out the Uccelliera wines might want to start with the Rosso or the Rapace, which is sublime in 2010, a great vintage for Montalcino. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including: de Grazia Imports; tel. (417) 732-4200; Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300; Estate Wines Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411; Robert Houde Wines, Elk Grove Village, IL; tel. (847) 430-3887