The A D’Anguix was sourced from 35-40 year old vines and aged sur lie for 24 months in new French oak. Notions of mineral, underbrush, lavender, potpourri, and lightly roasted black fruits lead to a savory, satin-textured, friendly offering that has enough structure to evolve for another 1-2 years. However, considering the asking price, it is in need of considerably more depth and concentration. Importer: New Age Imports, Verona, NJ; www.newageimports.net

The 2005 A D’Anguix displays brooding black fruits, Asian spices, lavender, plum, and blackberry. Powerful on the palate and impeccably balanced, it lacks the glossy polish and suave personality of the 2004. Nevertheless, it is a first-class effort. Importer: New Age Imports, Verona, NJ; www.newageimports.net

The flagship 2004 A D’Anguix was sourced from the estate’s oldest vines and aged for 24 months in new French oak. A glass-coating opaque purple color, it gives up a compelling perfume of sandalwood, mineral, scorched earth, incense, and blackberry. Dense, packed and powerful, it manages to convey a sense of elegance. It conceals enough structure for another 5-7 years of positive evolution and will offer prime drinking from 2015 to 2029. Importer: New Age Imports, Verona, NJ; www.newageimports.net