Toni Jost Bacharacher Hahn Riesling Auslese Gold Capsule A P #4

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The botrytis-affected 2004 Bacharacher Hahn Riesling Auslese Gold Capsule A.P. #4 evinces scents of grilled pineapple, caramelized peach and wood smoke, and on the palate exhibits the same combination of creaminess of texture with delicacy and refinement, the same wafting inner-mouth florality that has made so many 2004s memorable. Heady gardenia perfume, a whiff of smoke, and a hint of white raisin hover throughout as a reminder of just how ripe and nobly rotten were these grapes. Compared with the “regular” Auslese, this exhibits more substantiality (with slightly higher alcohol), as well as more force and grip in the finish. A Hahn Riesling Beerenauslese offered an odd juxtaposition of caramelized fruit with the tart rhubarb character one sometimes encounters in Gruner Veltliner Beerenauslese, its 13 grams acidity (more typical of Eiswein range) not yet integrating. There has long been a provision for drip lines in the Hahn as a controlled experiment, but Peter Jost says that Mother Nature pretty much delivered the right amount of water in 2004 without technological assistance. This is not the first year in which the starting point for Jost’s wines was a must weight legally sufficient for Auslese. Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300