Theo Minges Gleisweiler Holle Scheurebe Spatlese, Pfalz, Germany

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From the parcel planted to this grape that Minges has had for years (as opposed to the recently-acquired old Scheurebe vines that informed this year’s trocken counterpart), his 2009 Gleisweiler Holle Scheurebe Spatlese smells and tastes of mint, licorice, black currant, and candied lime and orange peel. This wine’s confectionary and orange liqueur-like aspects are not relieved by the sort of juicy refreshment of the collection’s corresponding Muskateller, although bitterness of citrus rind offers some sense of counterpart. I’m sure this will remain fresh for at least a half dozen years and perhaps in the process come into better focus. Despite picking into November, Theo Minges was one of those Sudpfalzer who had no trouble retaining acidity in 2009. Indeed, some of his dry offerings practically left me wanting to don sunglasses during our tasting session. As has become usual at this address, the collection is enormously diverse (and I do not usually taste nearly all of its non-Riesling members). “There are a lot of growers,” jokes Minges, “who have an enormous range of wines because they don’t sell well, so the grower keeps trying something new. I go out to the vineyard, get inspired, have a vision, and then I feel compelled to carry it out. And this repeats itself however many times …Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

Sage and grapefruit mark the nose of Minges’ 2007 Gleisweiler Holle Scheurebe Spatlese, reminding one of the extent to which this grape, Muscat, Sauvignon, and (in the Pfalz) sometimes even Rieslaner can resemble one another. In the mouth, the impression is of sweet herbal-concentrate and grapefruit marmalade, with resinous, bitter-sweet notes carrying into an overtly sweet, yet at the same time faintly drying finish. The strong points of this wine are its aromas and initial attack, and I would plan on enjoying it over the next 3-4 years, and hence necessarily in contexts where considerable sweetness is desired. For the most part, Theo Minges achieved admirable results in 2007, a vintage he saw as playing into his hand by promoting inherent clarity, nuance, and “energy, so that all you had to do in the cellar was direct it.”Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

The Minges 2006 Gleisweiler Holle Scheurebe Spatlese smells intensely of blackcurrant, sage, and mint. In the mouth, it exudes honey, creme de cassis, caramelized peaches, and coffee, with persistent overtones of herbal concentrates, then finishes with a surprising spurt of lemony citricity that keeps the sweetness from becoming cloying. This luscious, outrageously effusive expression of Scheurebe should be fun to follow over at least the next 8-10 years.Theo Minges certainly proved his viticultural mastery this year, because you would never guess you were tasting wines from such a challenging vintage. “Yes,” he says, “we began picking really rapidly at first. But after a while, once we saw that things had stabilized in the vineyard, we could adopt a completely normal pace.”Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel (516) 677-9300

This wine was recommended, but no tasting note was given.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

The exotic 2002 Scheurebe Spatlese Gleisweiler Holle explodes from the glass with pepper, orange blossoms, and spices. Medium-bodied, rich, and satin-textured, this lush wine reveals flavors reminiscent of a roasted red pepper puree, candied/spiced lemons, and hints of tangerines. It should be enjoyed over the next 4 years. Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300