Theo Minges Gleisweiler Holle Scheurebe Spatlese, Pfalz, Germany

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From the parcel planted to this grape that Minges has had for years (as opposed to the recently-acquired old Scheurebe vines that informed this year’s trocken counterpart), his 2009 Gleisweiler Holle Scheurebe Spatlese smells and tastes of mint, licorice, black currant, and candied lime and orange peel. This wine’s confectionary and orange liqueur-like aspects are not relieved by the sort of juicy refreshment of the collection’s corresponding Muskateller, although bitterness of citrus rind offers some sense of counterpart. I’m sure this will remain fresh for at least a half dozen years and perhaps in the process come into better focus. Despite picking into November, Theo Minges was one of those Sudpfalzer who had no trouble retaining acidity in 2009. Indeed, some of his dry offerings practically left me wanting to don sunglasses during our tasting session. As has become usual at this address, the collection is enormously diverse (and I do not usually taste nearly all of its non-Riesling members). “There are a lot of growers,” jokes Minges, “who have an enormous range of wines because they don’t sell well, so the grower keeps trying something new. I go out to the vineyard, get inspired, have a vision, and then I feel compelled to carry it out. And this repeats itself however many times …Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300