Eric Fry’s way with Gewurztraminer is hardly P.C., as he lets it “hang until its acid’s gone and it is falling apart,” then acidifies, yet as his 2006 Gewurztraminer demonstrates, the results are not just striking but among the best anywhere in the world outside of Alsace (and for those like me who crave truly dry Gewurz, Fry’s always is).Celery seed, lime peel, and diverse flowers in the nose carry onto an opulently-textured yet refreshing palate along with ripe musk melon and fresh ginger. In riper vintages, Lenz Gewurztraminer is oilier in texture, but always – to again quote Fry – “although I am into delicacy, Gewurztraminer has to be aggressive. And it’s no good,” he adds, “‘til it’s had bottle age.” Audition this at your table soon, and you can cellar some for 3-4 more years with no problem. Micro-biologist Eric Fry reached New York from his native California 25 years ago on the recommendation of mentor Andre Tchelistcheff and has long ago become a Long Island veteran. He and owner Peter J. Carroll follow a release regimen that would give most winery proprietors headaches and heartburn not to mention red ink, with whites usually appearing a couple of years after harvest, while red wines and the estate’s wonderful sparkling wines are typically released after four or more years. Fry believes oxygen is a friend at the right time, and his reds often get “splashed” following what usually are very slow malos; are given extended time in barrel before racking to tank; and are bottled extremely late.Tel. (631) 364-8403

The Lenz 2004 Gewurztraminer displays so much peppermint and cress in the nose and such an exuberant juiciness of fruit acidity on the palate that I first thought “Sauvignon Blanc.” Celery seed and lychee aromas more typical of this variety as well as a hint of textural creaminess emerge as the wine takes on air, along with a tactile brown spice element and a salty note in the surprisingly juicy finish. At least for his microclimate, Fry asserts, “By the time Gewurz is ready to pick, the acid is gone, the pH is four, it’s falling apart,” and consequently he adds acid. I must say that in this instance it has been adeptly done. Lenz opines that the more typical rose petal and spice of this variety will emerge after a few more months in bottle. Tel. (631) 364-8403

If the 2004 pulls in a Sauvignon direction, Lenz’s 2003 Gewurztaminer exhibits a rather Pinot Gris-like aroma of peaches and wood smoke along with subtle rose petal and lychee notes. The palate impression here is fuller and creamier than in the 2004 and the savory finish meatier and spicier. The Lenz Chardonnay style, incidentally, eschews the cheap tricks of tropical fruit and toasted oak for fresh pit fruit and citrus with subtle oak and rich lees integration. One component I tasted of their 2005 Chardonnay – the wine had not yet been assembled – displayed positively Chassagne-like jellied red fruit aromas. Another strong specialization of Fry’s is methode champenoise. “I used to make red Pinot Noir in good years and it was mediocre. In bad years, I’d make bubbly – and it was wonderful,” he says by way of explanation. Tel. (631) 364-8403

Features textbook Gewurz aromas of rose petals and lychee fruit before yielding to a dry, bitter-almond note on the finish. ——J.C.(4/1/2001)—— 87