Eric Fry’s way with Gewurztraminer is hardly P.C., as he lets it “hang until its acid’s gone and it is falling apart,” then acidifies, yet as his 2006 Gewurztraminer demonstrates, the results are not just striking but among the best anywhere in the world outside of Alsace (and for those like me who crave truly dry Gewurz, Fry’s always is).Celery seed, lime peel, and diverse flowers in the nose carry onto an opulently-textured yet refreshing palate along with ripe musk melon and fresh ginger. In riper vintages, Lenz Gewurztraminer is oilier in texture, but always – to again quote Fry – “although I am into delicacy, Gewurztraminer has to be aggressive. And it’s no good,” he adds, “‘til it’s had bottle age.” Audition this at your table soon, and you can cellar some for 3-4 more years with no problem. Micro-biologist Eric Fry reached New York from his native California 25 years ago on the recommendation of mentor Andre Tchelistcheff and has long ago become a Long Island veteran. He and owner Peter J. Carroll follow a release regimen that would give most winery proprietors headaches and heartburn not to mention red ink, with whites usually appearing a couple of years after harvest, while red wines and the estate’s wonderful sparkling wines are typically released after four or more years. Fry believes oxygen is a friend at the right time, and his reds often get “splashed” following what usually are very slow malos; are given extended time in barrel before racking to tank; and are bottled extremely late.Tel. (631) 364-8403