So extracted in fruit and oak now, it’s almost rude, with the blackberry, currant, cassis liqueur and sweet toast flavors swamping the palate. There’s no doubting its Napa ripeness, or how smooth and refined the tannins are. The question is whether the power eventually will mellow with age. Although this isn’t the winery’s best Wurtele bottling, it should gain traction over the next eight years, and possibly longer.——S.H.(12/1/2011)—— 90