Tenute Silvio Nardi Poggio Doria, Brunello di Montalcino DOCG, Italy

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The Tenute Silvio Nardi 2017 Brunello di Montalcino Vigneto Poggio Doria shows a broader and heavier delivery of fruit. The wine is shaped by the ripeness of the vintage in addition to the more obvious oak used here. Dark cherry and blackberry lead to cedar, smoke and spice. The tannins are tight and stemmy in this hot and dry vintage. This time around, I prefer the unrestrained and more fruit-forward annata wine to this one.

Compared to the broad shoulders and rich concentration you get in the Vigneto Manachiara, the 2016 Brunello di Montalcino Vigneto Poggio Doria is slightly more ethereal and finessed in character. Even its color is a shade more ruby (by the slightest margin), and the aromas veer toward the red fruit side of the spectrum, instead of the black fruit. The bouquet yields quite a bit of varietal purity with raspberry, wild cherry and a lingering rosemary essence. Dark mineral and campfire ash also appear. The tannins are a bit drier and tighter here, compared to the relatively softer and richer texture seen in the Manachiara, and my recommendation is to hold this wine a bit longer in your cellar.

An impeccably balanced wine, and a perfect partner to a big Tuscan steak (air-dried for extra softness), the Tenute Silvio Nardi 2015 Brunello di Montalcino Vigneto Poggio Doria offers rich dark fruit intensity, good concentration and vivid aromas. It shows extra power and depth with plum, blackberry and a woody red fruit tone that recalls pomegranate or cassis. Even the appearance of this wine is a tone or two darker, albeit with that pretty Sangiovese shine and gloss that radiates from inside the glass. This Brunello delivers.

The 2012 Brunello di Montalcino Vigneto Poggio Doria is aged in both tonneaux and botte grande. Only 3,500 bottles are made. There are bright aromas of cherry and black currant at the core of this darkly colored Brunello. But there are also toasted notes of almond and smoke that underline the wine's youth. It is hard to get over the bitter astringency of the wine that reminds me of pomegranate seed or unripe plum. I keep thinking that the wine just needs more time to age and integrate, but I'm not confident that its awkward bitterness will ever fully disappear.

The top-shelf 2010 Brunello di Montalcino Vigneto Poggio Doria (packaged in a wax capsule) exhibits boldness and darkness with huge levels of intense cherry and dark fruit. There's a touch of rawness to the bouquet with cola, clove and other spices with sharp edges. You also get sweet accents in the mouth with ripe fruit, tobacco and barbecue smoke. The wine ages in Allier French oak for 18 months and sees an additional 12 months in large oak casks.