The 2008 Poggio Al Lupo is a relatively delicate, mid-weight wine. Sweet dark cherries, menthol and minerals are some of the nuances that emerge from the glass. This shows good length but lacks the mid-palate sweetness of the estate’s best wines. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2014. Antonio Moretti’s Sette Ponti continues to make important strides, especially with the flagship Oreno. Importer: Kobrand Corp., Purchase, NY; tel. (914) 253-7756

The 2007 Poggio al Lupo, from the estate’s vineyards in Maremma, shows the typical warmth and generosity of the wines from the Tuscan coast. Dark red fruit, espresso, mocha and spices come together nicely in this rich, textured offering. Only the slightly drying tannins and a slight sense of heaviness prevent the score from moving higher. Poggio al Lupo is Cabernet Sauvignon, Alicante and Petit Verdot. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2017. These superb releases from Sette Ponti include a fabulous version of the Oreno, perhaps the finest vintage ever made. Importer: Kobrand Corp., Purchase, NY; tel. (914) 253-7756

The 2006 Poggio Al Lupo is 73% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Alicante and 7% Petit Verdot from vineyards in Maremma aged in 100% new oak. It is a forward, juicy offering imbued with ripe red fruit, licorice, sweet toasted oak, smoke and minerals. Medium in body, the wine reveals good length and balance in an enticing style. This will be a very interesting wine to follow over the coming years. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2018. Importer: Kobrand Corp., Purchase, NY; tel. (914) 253-7756

This is a big, blockbuster blend of Cab, Alicante and Petit Verdot with thick extraction and raw tones of fruit, tobacco and spice that liven up its chewy, textured mouthfeel.——M.L.(4/1/2008)—— 92

Sette Ponti’s 2004 Poggio al Lupo is a blend of predominantly Cabernet Sauvignon with Alicante and Petit Verdot made at the winery’s Maremma property of the same name. It presents a pretty, floral nose along with expressive, vibrant sweet dark fruit, showing excellent concentration and good underlying structure. The presence of slightly astringent tannins on the finish keep the score from going higher. Anticipated maturity: 2007-2015. Importer: Kobrand Corp., New York, NY; tel. (212) 490-9300