The old vine selections from Corbieres include the 1998 Corbieres d'Ornaison, a blend of 70% Grenache and 30% Carignan. It reveals abundant black fruits in its herb-tinged, licorice, smoky, cassis personality. Dense, full-bodied, rustic, gloriously fruity, and mouth-coating, this fleshy, full-flavored wine should be drunk over the next 2-3 years to take advantage of its youthful exuberance. Importer: Martin Scott Wines, Little Neck, NY; tel. 516-327-0808.