Classic, but potentially complex and impressive is the 1998 Corbieres d'Embres. Revealing sweet blueberry jam, flower, earth, pepper, and spice aromas, it is a blend of nearly equal parts Carignan, Grenache, and Syrah. This full-bodied, mini-Hermitage is impressively constituted, rich, and long. It will benefit from another 12 months of bottle age; it should drink well for a decade. Importer: Martin Scott Wines, Little Neck, NY; tel. 516-327-0808.