This is a gigantic Chardonnay. It dazzles with superripe, jammy pineapple, apricot, Meyer lemon and apple butter flavors, with creamy, spicy oak notes. Not particularly subtle, so drink it with big foods, like lobster and scallops.——S.H.(2/1/2009)—— 91

The grapes got real ripe, to judge by the bright burst of yellow apricots and exotic passionfruits. At the same time, acidity is crisp and citrusy, and there’s a pleasant yeasty character, like Champagne, or a nice fino Sherry. The wine finishes totally dry, leaving a palate impression of great elegance. Drink now through 2010.——S.H.(8/1/2007)—— 90

The 2003 Chardonnay Porter Bass Vineyard offers a smoky hazelnut character as well as medium body, but for some reason, it’s short in the mouth, and fades in the finish. Tel. (707) 823-2794; Fax (707) 823-2796