The grapes got real ripe, to judge by the bright burst of yellow apricots and exotic passionfruits. At the same time, acidity is crisp and citrusy, and there’s a pleasant yeasty character, like Champagne, or a nice fino Sherry. The wine finishes totally dry, leaving a palate impression of great elegance. Drink now through 2010.——S.H.(8/1/2007)—— 90