From 22-year-old vines, this is 100% barrel fermented, and retains 20.5% residual sugar. Still, it’s not cloying; it’s lively with stone fruits, mown hay and some high-toned esters. It tastes of apples, butterscotch and candy; finishes long with plenty of acid support. ——P.G.(9/1/2004)—— 92