The 1993 Merlot is a tempting bargain. I am a Merlot fanatic and for over sixteen years have enthusiastically reviewed many great Pomerols, which are primarily Merlot-based wines. There are a few great California Merlots, but most are hollow, vegetal, and thin. That cannot be said about Shooting Star's Merlot. Priced under $10 a bottle, it would shame many $15-$20 Merlots. It offers a dark ruby color, a wonderfully fresh, lively, intense, chewy nose of black-cherries, medium to full body, a silky, lush, voluptuous texture, and excellent purity. It should drink well for 4-5 years. Shooting Star is the less expensive, secondary label of Steele (Jed Steele's middle name is Tecumseh, meaning "born under the sign of a shooting star"). The 1993 offerings reviewed in this issue are an admirable group of modestly priced wines that offer immediate gratification. Tel. (707) 279-0213 (Steele winery)
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