Mainly Pinot Noir, with some Chardonnay for brightness and citrusy zest, this brilliantly clean wine has an incredibly fierce mousse. It seems to boil in the glass, and the followup mouthfeel is as creamy and refined as any California sparkler in memory. The Pinot asserts itself in delicate touches of raspberries and strawberries. Delicious and compelling now. Try with sushi.——S.H.(12/1/2010)—— 94