With a dash of Chardonnay added for brightness, this Pinot Noir-based sparkler sure is rich and complex. It’s fierce in fine little bubbles, with long, deep flavors that are just a teensy bit sweet in dosage, but very high acidity balances that right out. The wine has a certain roughness that should melt away with three to five years of bottle age. ——S.H.(12/31/2006)—— 90