These are circumstances that call for letting go of -trocken,- and with his -one star- 2006 Erdener Pralat Riesling Auslese Alte Reben, Schmitges has followed that prescription, with around 12% alcohol and subtle, well-integrated sweetness (following a very slow, spontaneous fermentation). Its aromas of tangerine, orange, sassafras, and honey are unmistakably of this site (or nearly portions of Treppchen). Suggesting a hybrid of lemon chiffon and orange creamsicle on the palate, this is strikingly creamy and elegant and deliciously supports Schmitges- contention that in the -grand cru- Pralat (his parcels at least) -these grapes held out until the end against botrytis and there is a genuine juiciness to the fruit.- If you-re lucky enough to latch on to some of the 1,400 bottles you can enjoy it right away and will find it remarkably adaptable at table, but it will be awfully interesting to chart its evolution, and I would suspect that will be worthwhile for at least 12-15 years. This is the first year where Schmitges feels he has reaped the benefits of his work in this parcel and really understood and captured its potential with an appropriate vinification. I could not agree more. A measure of the advantages of a small, ambitious family winery with lots of local connections, Schmittges was able to pick his entire crop in just nine days.Importers include: Dee Vine Wines, San Francisco, CA tel. (877) 389-9463; Ewald Moseler Selections, Portland OR tel. 888 274 4312; Magellan Wine Imports, Centennial, CO; tel. (720) 272-6544.
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