Schmitges Erdener Treppchen Riesling Spatlese One Star

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From steep, south-facing, yet relatively water-retentive portions of its Einzellage, the Schmitges 2009 Erdener Treppchen Riesling Spatlese smells alluringly and tastes coolly yet lusciously of pink grapefruit, tangerine, mango, and sassafras. Bright and lively, it is a bit freighted by its sweetness, which results in a long but decidedly root beer-like finish. I would be inclined to give this 5-7 years in the cellar and then expect at least that many again of slightly more subtle performance. But there are plenty of Mosel Riesling lovers who will relish in its raw youth such a generous if also generously sweet Spatlese. “My father was going crazy in October,” says Andreas Schmitges, because contrary to normal practice “we were harvesting Monday through Thursday and then just working in the cellar or the vinotec over the weekend, all under beautiful skies, while he’s shuffling his feet and thinking ‘Hey, folks, at some point this lovely weather is going to be over.’ But our forecasters were reliable and the weather held as long as we needed,” he claimed, which in his case was until November 10. Schmitges relates that – in part under the influence of Mosel practices in a bygone era; in part based on “intensive exchange with Austrian colleagues,notably Peter Veyder-Malberg, over the last five years” – he now gives his musts destined for dry wines increasing skin contact and opportunity to oxidize before the onset of fermentations, which he allows to rise higher in temperature than is usual today on the Mosel. He also acknowledges a recognition that accumulation of degrees Oechsle can nowadays be problematic, for which reason his approach to soil management (including deep plowing and carefully-targeted greening); pruning; picking (“paying careful attention to acid-retention but also ripeness of acids”); and vinification (including spontaneous fermentation and longer lees contact) is reflecting increasing watchfulness lest wines become “too lush” or noticeably high in alcohol.Importers include: Dee Vine Wines, San Francisco, CA tel. (877) 389-9463; Ewald Moseler Selections, Portland OR tel. 888 274 4312; Magellan Wine Imports, Centennial, CO (720) 272-6544