The 2007 Quantum L’Autoctono (Pignolo) is a huge wine that captures the essence of this indigenous variety. There is plenty of intensity in the fruit, but the tannins are every bit as imposing. Leather, spices, wild herbs, earthiness and licorice are some of the nuances that emerge over time, but it is impossible to escape Pignolo’s inherent rusticity. This is an especially brooding, tannic wine, but it is as good as it gets for Pignolo. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2017. Sant’Elena is an interesting property. The estate is located in Gradisca, a town that historically has not been known for the quality of its vineyards. Still, in recent years, Sant’Elena has produced a number of terrific wines under the leadership of proprietor Dominic Nocerino, best known as the owner of Vinifera Imports. There are still some kinks that need to be worked out, and not all of the wines I tasted merited inclusion for this report, but the best wines are well worth seeking out. Importer: Vinifera Imports, Ronkonkoma, NY; tel. (631) 467-5907

The 2006 Quantum L’Autoctono (Pignolo) is an absolutely delicious, huge red that explodes from the glass with dark fruit, leather, licorice, anise and French oak. This large-scaled, exuberant wine exhibits remarkable depth and plenty of textural richness. Hints of mocha and espresso frame the huge finish. This is the finest wine I have tasted from Sant’Elena. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2024. These are the most impressive wines across the board I have tasted from Sant’Elena. Importer: Vinifera Imports, Ronkonkoma, NY; tel. (631) 467-5907