Amarone Gaso delivers thick concentration and dark tones of cooked apple, blackberry spice and leather. The wine is soft and chewy with loads of ripe fruit on the sweet, succulent close. ——M.L.(12/1/2011)—— 91

There’s a fun, chunky, slightly hefty quality to this wine, accented by blocky aromas of coffee, vanilla, poached cherries, cola, roasted chestnut and brown sugar. If you’re an Amarone purist, you might find these qualities muddled and lacking in grace. But if you love big, meaty wines that you can sink your teeth into, it’s for you. The mouthfeel is chewy, sticky and long lasting.——M.L.(12/1/2007)—— 90