In a bottle with a brown paper label, the San Rustico 2018 Valpolicella Ripasso Classico Superiore Gaso (with 40,000 bottles made) is a rather simple red with bold fruit intensity, syrupy blackberry and soft tannins over a medium-rich finish. The blend used here is 68% Corvina, 27% Rondinella and 5% Molinara.

The San Rustico 2017 Valpolicella Ripasso Classico Superiore Gaso shows a lot of ripe fruit delivered up front, but it remains quite simple and streamlined throughout. The bouquet reveals fresh cherry, dried raspberry and mild spice. Those aromas are a bit riper and plumper in this notoriously hot and dry vintage. If you're looking for a fun and easy-drinking Ripasso, look no further. The blend is 68% Corvina, 27% Rondinella and 5% Molinara. Production is 60,000 bottles.

This pretty vintage shows a very rich, luscious and bold quality of fruit. The 2015 Valpolicella Ripasso Classico Superiore Gaso is packed tight with ripe cherry and blackberry at its core, all framed by spice, tar and pencil shaving. This is a medium to full-weight Ripasso with the heft and staying power to pair with Argentinian asado.

The 2010 Valpolicella Ripasso Classico Superiore Gaso is comprised of mostly Corvina with smaller parts Corvinone, Rondinella and Molinara. The double fermentation occurs on Amarone pomace at the end of February. Dark intensity and pretty aromas of prune, raisin, road tar and barbecue smoke characterize this balanced red wine. It shows some chewy softness, but never feels too heavy. Drink 2014-2018. San Rustico has existed since 1870 and is now in the fourth generation of family ownership. The winery has developed a good following thanks to its Amarone from the prized Gaso vineyards, located 350 meters above sea level with red volcanic soils. Gaso wines are highly marked by their territory. Importers: John Given Wines, www.jgwines.com; Votto Vines Importing, www.vottovines.com