San Polino presents new releases that are darker, riper and more concentrated compared to most. That's definitely true of the 2017 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva. This certified organic wine shows hot-vintage intensity with a touch of aromatic sweetness or jamminess that I also found in the two Brunello releases from 2018. However, the mouthfeel is bone dry, abruptly so, and even bitter. Only 1,300 bottles were made in this challenging vintage.

A biodynamic and certified-organic wine, the San Polino 2016 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva offers more depth and complexity next to the two wines from 2017 also hitting the market now. These are qualities of the classic 2016 vintage, and they are played out to good effect in this bottle. The bouquet is redolent of ripe cherry, blackberry, spice and earthy tones, but the tannins are less aggressive in this wine. The acidity also feels brighter. 2,666 bottles were made.

The San Polino 2015 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva (a 6,000-bottle release made with organic fruit) is another pretty protagonist from the vintage that does not hold back in terms of intensity, primary fruit character and dark plummy ripeness. Keeping in line with the characteristics of this warm and sunny vintage, this is a generous, soft and fruit-forward expression. Those 2015 tannins are a bit softer compared to 2016, and this wine is almost, but not quite, ready to drink straight out of the gate. For best results, however, give it another three years.

New oak lends a spicy veneer to this red, dominating the cherry and tobacco flavors for now. The oak also adds a tannic component that leaves a dry impression. Best from 2015 through 2028.??–BS??Region: Italy / Brunello di Montalcino Select to Add

I really like the clarity of fruit in this Riserva Brunello, which boasts plum and dried dark fruits everywhere, as well as hints of chocolate and coffee. A full body and polished tannins finish it off. Organic. Best after 2011. 105 cases made, 75 cases imported.??–JS??Region: Italy / Brunello di Montalcino Select to Add